Types of collars: shirt collars and when to wear each

Point, spread and cutaway collars

The point collar, sometimes sold as classic, has points that sit fairly close together and angle downward. It has long been the default American business collar, pairs naturally with a slim four in hand knot, and tends to flatter rounder or wider faces because it draws a vertical line. A long point collar exaggerates the effect and looks more conservative.

The spread collar opens the points outward, leaving more room for the knot. It suits most faces and most occasions, and it is the easiest collar to wear with a slightly larger knot like the half Windsor. A semi spread sits between point and spread and is the most versatile choice if you buy only one kind of dress shirt.

The cutaway, or extreme spread, pushes the points so far apart that they aim toward the shoulders. It looks confident and European, suits narrow faces, and needs a substantial knot, such as a full Windsor, to fill the gap; with a thin knot you see the tie's neckband. It is also the best dress collar for wearing open without a tie, because the points stay flat instead of collapsing.

The button down collar

A button down collar has small buttons that fasten the points to the shirt front. The idea came from English polo players, who pinned their collars down so they would not flap during play; John Brooks of Brooks Brothers saw this in England in 1896, and the company introduced its button down shirt in 1900. The collar is usually soft and unlined, so it forms a gentle roll that looks relaxed and deliberate.

Button downs work with or without a tie and are the backbone of business casual and preppy dressing. With a tie, choose a knit or a slim four in hand and keep both collar buttons fastened. Without a tie, fasten the collar buttons anyway; unbuttoned points look forgotten. Traditionally the button down is considered too casual for a formal suit, though many American men wear one to the office with a blazer, and an oxford cloth button down is the classic version.

Club, tab, pin and wing collars

A club collar has rounded points, which is why it is also called a penny collar. It originated at Eton College and has a vintage, early twentieth century feel, lovely with a small knot, a tweed jacket or a tie bar. A tab collar hides a small fastening tab under the tie knot that pulls the points together and lifts the knot. A pin collar does the same job with a metal bar that passes behind the knot through two eyelets. Both suit narrow ties and slim lapels, and both are dressy but slightly distinctive.

The wing collar is a short standing collar with small tips folded outward horizontally, like wings. It is made for evening wear, traditionally with white tie and a bow tie, and sometimes worn with black tie, although a turndown collar is more common there today. Our guide to tying a bow tie explains the knot that sits on it.

Camp, band and other open collars

The camp collar, also called a Cuban or revere collar, is a one piece collar that lies flat and opens into a notch, much like small lapels. It has no band, so it is meant to be worn open and never with a tie. It is the collar of summer shirts in linen, rayon and cotton, worn untucked with shorts, chinos or light trousers.

The band collar, also called a mandarin or grandad collar, is a short standing strip with no folded points, based on traditional Asian garments. It looks clean and minimal under a blazer and suits linen and oxford cloth. The Nehru collar is a similar stand on a jacket, inspired by Indian dress and popular in the 1960s. A stand collar jacket, from bombers to field jackets, borrows the same idea.

Ask for the three main types of collars and a textbook will group them by construction: standing collars that rise around the neck, like the band and the wing; turnover collars that stand and then fold over, like the point, spread and button down; and flat collars that lie on the shoulders, like the Peter Pan and sailor collars. Every collar in this guide belongs to one of those three families, which is a useful way to decode an unfamiliar name on a product page.

T shirt collar types

T shirts technically have necklines rather than collars. The crew neck is a round, close neckline finished with a ribbed band; it is the most versatile and sits well under jackets and overshirts. The V neck dips to a point and can lengthen a short neck, while the scoop neck is wider and lower. The henley adds a short placket with two or three buttons. A mock neck rises partway up the throat, and a polo shirt has a soft knitted collar with a buttoned placket, which makes it the dressiest of the group. For layering under a shirt, a crew or shallow V keeps the T shirt hidden when your collar is open.

Types of collars on dresses and blouses

Women's clothing uses the shirt collars above and a wider set of its own. The Peter Pan collar is flat with rounded ends and gives a sweet, youthful look on dresses and blouses. The sailor collar has a deep V in front and a square flap at the back, from naval uniforms. A shawl collar is a rounded collar that continues down into the lapels, common on cardigans and dinner jackets alike. A bow or pussy bow collar ends in long ties knotted at the throat, and a ruffled collar softens a plain shirt. A Barrymore collar is a turndown with long points, named after the actor John Barrymore; long pointed collars of that kind came back strongly in the 1970s, which is why wide, long pointed shirts are often called seventies collars.

How to choose the right collar

Start with the occasion. For a suit and tie at work or a wedding, choose a point, semi spread or spread collar with stays; for business casual, a button down or a spread worn open; for summer weekends, a camp collar. Then match the knot: narrow collars with small knots, wide collars with fuller knots. Finally consider proportion. A narrow face looks balanced in a wider spread, a round face in points that sit closer together, and a long neck in a slightly taller collar band.

Fit matters as much as style. You should be able to slide one or two flat fingers into a buttoned collar without strain, and the points should touch the shirt front rather than float or curl. Our guide to finding your dress shirt size explains how to measure your neck, and pressing the collar properly, covered in how to iron a shirt, keeps points crisp.