Snaza
The Snaza Journal

Suits and tailoring

How a suit should fit, which buttons to fasten, how long trousers should be and how to put shirt, tie, belt and shoes together.

16 guides

A charcoal wool jacket hangs above tailor chalk and a plain tick marked cloth tape on a wooden table

A suit looks expensive when it fits: shoulders that end where yours do, sleeves that show a little shirt cuff, trousers that meet the shoe cleanly. These guides explain what to look for in the mirror and what a tailor can and cannot change.

You will also find the conventions that make tailoring easier, such as which buttons to fasten, how to match belt, shoes and socks, and which shirt and tie work with a navy or gray suit.

Guides

  1. A young woman in a buttoned navy blazer and cream trousers checks where the sleeve ends at her wrist.

    Suits and tailoring

    How a blazer should fit, for men and women

    How a blazer should fit at the shoulders, chest, button, sleeves and hem, with the differences for men's and women's cuts and which problems a tailor can fix.

  2. A young man in a white poplin dress shirt tucked into gray trousers buttons the cuff at his wrist.

    Suits and tailoring

    How a dress shirt should fit: collar to cuff

    How a dress shirt should fit at the collar, shoulders, chest, waist, sleeves and hem, what slim and classic fit mean, and which problems a tailor can fix.

  3. A young man in a fitted navy suit touches his shoulder seam and looks along his sleeve in an empty room.

    Suits and tailoring

    How a suit should fit: shoulders, sleeves and length

    How should a suit fit? Check the shoulders, collar, button, jacket length, sleeves and trousers in the mirror, and learn what a tailor can and cannot fix.

  4. Side view of charcoal wool trousers falling with a slight break onto dark brown oxford shoes.

    Suits and tailoring

    How long should dress pants be? Choosing your break

    How long should dress pants be? Learn the no break, slight break and full break, how shoes and leg width change the answer, and what to tell your tailor.

  5. A young man measures the base of his neck with a cream cloth tape, one finger slipped beneath it.

    Suits and tailoring

    How to find your dress shirt size: neck and sleeve

    Read any dress shirt size chart with confidence: how to measure your neck and sleeve, what 15.5 34/35 means, how to check a collar, and slim vs classic fit.

  6. A young man turns one shoulder of a navy suit jacket inside out on an oak table beside an open weekend bag.

    Suits and tailoring

    How to fold a suit for travel, jacket and trousers

    How to fold a suit for travel: the shoulder inversion fold for the jacket, folding suit trousers, where to pack them, and getting wrinkles out when you arrive.

  7. Dark brown oxford shoes sit with a coiled belt navy socks and a steel watch on pale linen

    Suits and tailoring

    How to match your belt, shoes and socks

    How to match belt and shoes by color and finish, which buckle goes with your watch, why socks follow the trousers, and when casual outfits relax the rules.

  8. A young man in a gray flannel waistcoat, pale blue shirt and navy trousers leans against the wall of a stone stairwell.

    Suits and tailoring

    How to wear a vest: suit vests and casual vests for men

    How to wear a vest as a man: how a suit vest should fit, the bottom button rule, wearing one without a jacket, and casual sweater, puffer and denim vests.

  9. A young man in a white shirt and high waisted charcoal trousers runs his thumbs down burgundy suspenders.

    Suits and tailoring

    How to wear suspenders with trousers and jeans

    How to wear suspenders well: button or clip on, which back style, how to adjust the length, why not to add a belt, and outfits from suits to jeans.

  10. Dark brown oxford and derby shoes sit side by side with their closed and open lacing clearly visible.

    Suits and tailoring

    Oxford vs derby shoes: the difference and when to wear each

    Oxford vs derby shoes: closed and open lacing, which is more formal, which fits a high instep, where brogues and bluchers fit in, and what to wear with each.

  11. A man fastens the upper button of a charcoal two button suit while leaving the lower button open.

    Suits and tailoring

    Suit button rules: which buttons to fasten

    Suit jacket button rules for two button, three button and double breasted jackets: which to fasten, why the bottom stays open, and what to do when you sit.

  12. A black satin lapel tuxedo jacket hangs beside a matte navy notch lapel suit jacket.

    Suits and tailoring

    Suit vs tuxedo: how to tell them apart and which to wear

    Suit vs tuxedo explained: the satin lapels, trouser stripe and bow tie that set a tuxedo apart, and which one a wedding, prom or black tie invitation asks for.

  13. Six neatly folded shirts display point spread cutaway button down club and camp collars

    Suits and tailoring

    Types of collars: shirt collars and when to wear each

    A guide to the types of collars on shirts: point, spread, cutaway, button down, club, wing, camp and band, plus T shirt necks and collars on dresses.

  14. Six men's shoes progress from a black oxford through brown dress styles to a suede Chelsea boot

    Suits and tailoring

    Types of dress shoes for men, from formal to relaxed

    A clear guide to the types of dress shoes: oxfords, derbies, brogues, monk straps, loafers, dress boots and evening shoes, and which to buy first.

  15. A man in a black tuxedo adjusts a pleated black satin cummerbund over a white dress shirt.

    Suits and tailoring

    What is a cummerbund, and how do you wear one?

    What a cummerbund is for, how to wear one with a tuxedo, which way the pleats face, whether to choose a cummerbund or a vest, and how it works with suspenders.

  16. A navy suit jacket lies beside white and blue shirts with burgundy green and navy silk ties.

    Suits and tailoring

    What shirt and tie to wear with a navy suit

    What color shirt with a navy suit? Shirt and tie combinations for work, weddings and interviews, how to mix patterns, and the same rules for charcoal gray.