How to hand wash clothes properly

Know what should be hand washed

Start with the care label. A hand in a washtub means hand washing, and a number or dots inside the tub, if present, give the maximum water temperature. GINETEX, the international association behind these symbols, describes the process as dissolving a fine detergent in plenty of water and letting the textile float in the solution, which is a good summary of the whole method. Our guide to reading laundry symbols explains the rest of the label.

Wool and cashmere knits, silk (see our guide to washing silk), lace, lingerie and bras (our guide to washing a bra covers underwires and molded cups), swimwear, beaded or sequined tops and anything with delicate trims are the usual candidates. Hand washing is also a fine way to wash everyday cotton and synthetic clothes when you have no machine. It is not a gentler substitute for dry cleaning, though. A label that says dry clean only is a strong signal that the maker expects water to cause damage, often because of linings, interfacings, shaped tailoring or unstable dyes, and those garments belong with a professional.

Choose a gentle detergent for hand washing

A liquid detergent labeled for delicates or for hand washing is the easiest choice, because it dissolves at low temperatures and rinses out cleanly. For wool, cashmere and silk, choose one that says it is suitable for wool; the Woolmark Company advises against enzyme detergents and bleach for wool, and the same caution protects silk. For sturdy cottons and synthetics, a small amount of your usual liquid laundry detergent works well, and a bar of laundry soap is useful for rubbing into grimy collars and cuffs before the soak.

The American Cleaning Institute notes that some dishwashing liquids can be used for hand washing delicate fabrics, never in a washing machine, where they foam over. If you use one, choose a plain formula without added bleach or strong fragrance and use only a few drops. Travel laundry detergent in small bottles or sheets is simply concentrated detergent; check that it suits the fabric, and dose it as carefully as you would at home. Whatever you use, less is more: excess detergent is hard to rinse out by hand and leaves fabric stiff or sticky.

How to hand wash clothes, step by step

Wash light and dark colors separately, and do a quick color test on anything new or brightly dyed by pressing a damp white cloth against an inside seam. If color transfers, wash that piece alone or take it to a cleaner.

1. 01

   Clean the basin and fill it

   Rinse out the sink or basin to remove soap scum and toothpaste, then plug it and fill it with enough water for the garment to float freely. Use cool water for silk and bright colors, lukewarm water around 86°F (30°C) for wool as Woolmark suggests, and no warmer than the label allows for anything else. Hot tap water can easily exceed the limit on the tag, so check it with your wrist.

2. 02

   Dissolve the detergent first

   Add the detergent and swirl until it has dissolved completely. Undissolved detergent poured straight onto fabric can leave a concentrated patch that marks some colors.

3. 03

   Submerge and soak

   Turn knits and dark clothes inside out, press them under the surface and leave them for about 10 minutes, the soak time Woolmark gives for wool. Everyday cottons can soak longer, up to half an hour, if they are quite dirty. Do not leave anything overnight; long soaks let dyes move and can stretch knits.

4. 04

   Squeeze, do not scrub

   Gently squeeze the water and suds through the fabric several times, and work a little extra detergent into underarms, collars and cuffs with your fingertips. Scrubbing a knit against itself is how felting and pilling begin, so save firm rubbing for sturdy cottons.

5. 05

   Rinse until the water runs clear

   Drain the basin, press the garment against the side to remove soapy water, then refill with clean water of about the same temperature and move the garment through it. Repeat two or three times, until you see no suds and the fabric no longer feels slippery.

6. 06

   Press out the water

   Lift the garment with both hands, supporting its weight, and press it against the basin. Lay it on a clean towel, roll the towel up and press along the roll. Do not wring knits or silk. A sturdy cotton T shirt can take a gentle twist, but pressing works for everything.

Dry each piece the right way

Sweaters and other knits dry flat on a towel or mesh rack, patted back into shape, because a wet knit on a hanger stretches under its own weight. Our guides on washing wool and washing cashmere cover reshaping in detail. Shirts, blouses and dresses dry well on a plastic or wooden hanger, with the collar straightened and the seams tugged into line. Bras and swimwear can be laid flat or hung from the center rather than by the straps, which stretch.

Keep everything away from radiators, heaters and direct strong sun, which can shrink, yellow or fade delicate fibers. Thin synthetics may be dry in a few hours; cotton and knitwear often take a day. Make sure seams and waistbands are fully dry before you fold anything away, since trapped moisture leads to musty smells. Our guide to air drying clothes covers racks, lines and indoor drying in more detail.

Washing clothes in a sink while traveling

A hotel sink works the same way as a basin at home. If the plug is missing, a flat rubber stopper or a small plastic bag pushed into the drain will hold water long enough. Wash in the evening so pieces have the night to dry, and do underwear, socks and a shirt rather than trying to wash jeans. The towel roll is your best tool: rolling each piece tightly in a dry bath towel and kneeling or pressing on it removes enough water that a merino T shirt or synthetic shirt can be dry by morning.

Hang clothes where air moves, over the shower curtain rod or on hangers, not bunched on a towel bar. Packing a few fast drying pieces makes this far easier; our guide to packing a suitcase covers what travels well.