How to wear loafers, with or without socks

Know which loafer you have

Start by placing your pair on the formality scale. A penny loafer in brown or burgundy leather is the classic all rounder: casual enough for jeans, neat enough for chinos and a blazer. Tassel and horsebit loafers, especially in black or dark brown with a slim sole, are the dressiest and can go with suits. Suede loafers and soft driving moccasins are relaxed summer shoes, and chunky loafers with thick lug soles are a fashion statement that looks best with heavier fabrics and shorter hems.

That placement tells you everything else. A sleek loafer can handle tailoring and dark socks; a chunky or suede loafer wants casual fabrics, visible ankles or a thicker, textured sock. When you are unsure, compare it with the other types of dress shoes: the closer it looks to a smooth oxford, the dressier it can go.

Loafers with socks or without

Both are correct, and the choice follows the season and the setting. With suits, tailored trousers and in cool weather, wear socks, and choose them to continue the line of the trousers: navy socks with navy trousers, charcoal with gray. Fine merino or cotton dress socks suit slim leather loafers, while chunkier or suede loafers can take a thicker ribbed sock. The socks should be tall enough that no skin shows when you sit.

In warm weather and casual settings, a bare ankle looks light and relaxed. Very few people actually go barefoot inside the shoe. No show socks for loafers, cut low enough to hide below the shoe's opening and often fitted with a silicone grip at the heel so they do not slip off, absorb sweat and protect the lining. If you do go truly sockless, break leather loafers in with socks first, dust your feet with foot powder, and rest the shoes on cedar shoe trees for a day between wears so the leather dries out.

Loafers with visible socks can also be a deliberate style choice, especially for women: white or cream ribbed socks with black loafers and a skirt, or a colored sock that picks up something in the outfit. It has to look committed. A sock that is clearly chosen looks styled; a gray athletic sock peeking out looks accidental.

Which pants look best with loafers

Because loafers are low cut, they look best with pants that end cleanly at the ankle. Slim or straight trousers with little or no break, cropped chinos, ankle length jeans and cuffed denim all show the top of the shoe and give it a clean frame. Long, wide hems that pool over the vamp hide the shoe and make it look like a slipper. If your jeans are long, a narrow cuff sorts it out; our guide to cuffing jeans shows several ways.

Wide leg trousers can work, especially for women, when the hem is cut to graze the top of the shoe or sits just above it; a chunky loafer holds its own under a wider leg better than a delicate one. Our guide to styling wide leg trousers explains how to set that length.

How to wear loafers for men

For a weekend, pair brown penny loafers with straight dark jeans or chinos, an oxford shirt or a knit polo, and no show socks in summer. For the office, dark brown or burgundy loafers with gray wool trousers, a blazer and navy socks give a relaxed but polished business casual outfit that fits most American workplaces; our business casual guide has more combinations.

Can you wear penny loafers with a suit? With a lighter business suit, a linen or cotton summer suit or a relaxed wedding, yes, especially in dark leather with dress socks. A horsebit or tassel loafer looks more at home with tailoring than a chunky penny. For formal events, interviews in conservative fields, funerals and black tie, choose a lace up oxford instead; the loafer is still at the relaxed end of dress shoes.

How to wear loafers for women

Loafers for women sit easily in almost every part of a wardrobe. With jeans, choose straight or slightly cropped cuts that stop at the ankle, and add a crisp shirt, a fine knit or a blazer. With dresses and skirts, a midi length balances the flat shoe, and a sleek loafer makes a slip dress or a pleated skirt feel grounded and practical. With tailored trousers and a sweater, loafers are a comfortable alternative to heels at work.

Chunky loafers suit heavier fabrics and more volume: wool trousers, denim midi skirts, knit dresses with opaque tights in winter. Slimmer, softer loafers look best with lighter fabrics and summer dresses. Casual loafers for women in suede, or with a soft unstructured heel, work with cropped jeans and shorts in warm weather, worn barefoot inside with a no show liner.