How to store sweaters: folding, seasons and moths

Fold sweaters instead of hanging them

A knit is built from loops, and loops stretch. On a hanger, the whole weight of the sweater hangs from two small points at the shoulders, and over weeks that pull shows up as pointed bumps and a body that has grown longer. Woolmark recommends folding knitted garments and keeping them in drawers or on shelves, while saving hangers for woven wool such as jackets and pants. The heavier the knit, the more this matters: a chunky cardigan suffers faster on a hanger than a fine merino crew neck.

Fold with the sleeves crossed over the back and the body folded to the width of your shelf, rather than pulling the sweater tight into a crisp rectangle. If shelf space is short, you can fold a sweater lengthwise and drape it over the bar of a padded hanger so the weight rests on the bar rather than the shoulders. For a neat method that suits drawers and shelves, see our guide to folding a sweater.

How to store sweaters in your closet day to day

Before a sweater goes back on the shelf, empty the pockets and take off belts, brooches and anything else that could weigh down or snag the knit. Woolmark also suggests closing zips and buttons and giving wool a day's rest between wears so the fibers recover their spring. If it smells of cooking or smoke, lay it flat to air for an hour first. A sweater that is damp from rain or a long day should dry fully at room temperature before it is folded into a stack.

Keep stacks low enough that you can slide out the bottom sweater without dragging it from under the others, because friction is what starts pilling and snags. Shelf dividers, open fabric boxes and shallow drawers are the most practical sweater storage ideas because each keeps a small stack upright and visible. Group sweaters by weight or by how often you wear them, and keep delicate or embellished knits away from zips and hooks. Our guide to organizing your closet covers the wider layout.

High shelves and small spaces need a slightly different setup. On a shelf above eye level, stacks are hard to see and topple when you pull from below, so put sweaters in open fabric bins or boxes with a handle on the front and a label, and lift the whole bin down instead of tugging at one knit. In a closet with no shelves, a hanging fabric organizer on the rail holds folded sweaters without any weight on their shoulders. Drawers go further with the upright file fold, and a shallow lidded bin under the bed takes the heaviest knits you wear only in the coldest weeks.

Before seasonal storage: clean, dry and check

Wash or clean every sweater before it is stored, even ones that look clean. Woolmark notes that food stains and body oils attract moths, and the University of California's integrated pest management program adds that clothes moths prefer soiled fabric, so a sweater worn once and put away is more at risk than a freshly washed one. Follow each care label, and see our guides to washing a wool sweater and washing cashmere for the details.

Let everything dry completely, then check it again. Thick cuffs, collars and seams hold water long after the chest feels dry, and sealed damp wool is a recipe for mustiness and mold. While each piece is in your hands, look for small holes, loose seams and missing buttons, and mend them now, so an old flaw is not mistaken for new damage in the fall. This is also a natural moment to remove pills with our guide to removing pilling, and to set aside anything you did not wear all winter; our guide to decluttering your clothes can help with that decision.

Bins, bags or boxes: choosing storage for winter clothes

Two sensible pieces of advice seem to pull against each other. The UC program recommends storing clean, pest free woolens in an airtight container, because a sealed box keeps moths out. Woolmark points out that vacuum bags do not let clothes breathe and can trap moisture, and suggests cotton or wool storage bags for delicate pieces. Both are right under different conditions. An airtight container protects only what goes in clean and dry, and only if the room itself stays dry. A breathable bag suits a dry closet that you open often enough to notice a problem.

For most homes, lidded clothing storage bins with a good seal are the practical middle ground. Clear bins let you see what is inside without unpacking; a sachet of silica gel inside helps absorb stray moisture. Fill them loosely, heaviest sweaters at the bottom, with tissue paper between delicate pieces, which Woolmark suggests to prevent snagging. Vacuum storage bags for clothes save a great deal of space, but Woolmark notes that they can need resealing, can trap moisture and are not ideal for delicate clothing; they also press fine knits flat. Keep them for hardwearing items, and give cashmere and fine merino a box or a cotton bag instead.

Where to keep stored clothes, including winter coats

Choose a spot that is cool, dry and dark, and that you can reach. A shelf at the top of a bedroom closet or a bin under the bed usually beats an attic or basement, where temperature and humidity swing with the seasons. The UC program notes that low indoor humidity makes conditions less favorable for clothes moths. Label each container with its contents so you can find one sweater in October without opening everything, and open the boxes every month or two to look for condensation, musty smells or insects; Woolmark likewise recommends checking stored clothes from time to time.

Winter coats are the exception to folding. A woven wool coat belongs on a broad, shaped hanger that supports its shoulders, with buttons closed and pockets empty. Clean it before storage, following our guide to washing a wool coat if the label allows it at home, then cover it with a breathable cloth garment bag rather than the thin plastic from the dry cleaner, which can hold in moisture. Give coats enough space in the closet that they are not crushed against each other.

Keep clothes moths out, and deal with them if they arrive

Clothes moths are small, about a quarter inch (6 mm) at rest, and they flutter weakly near the infested items rather than flying toward lights like pantry moths. The damage is done by their larvae, which feed on wool, fur, feathers and blends containing wool, usually in hidden places such as under collars and cuffs. Signs include silky webbing or tubes on the fabric, small cases the color of the fabric, grazed patches and holes. Pheromone traps, sold at hardware stores, attract the males and are useful mainly for telling you whether moths are present.

Prevention is cleaning and sealing, backed up by checking. The UC program is candid about the usual remedies: cedar oil can kill small larvae but not large ones, and cedar loses that effect after several years; a tightly made chest matters more than the wood. Little is known about how well herbal repellents work. Mothballs work properly only in an airtight container, are toxic, leave a strong smell and can soften plastic buttons, so they are a poor fit for most homes.

If you find an infestation, take everything out of the closet or box, clean each item as its label allows, and vacuum the space thoroughly, especially the corners and cracks, emptying the vacuum promptly. The UC program lists washing in water of at least 120°F (49°C) for 20 to 30 minutes, dry cleaning, or sealing an item in a plastic bag and freezing it for several days below 18°F (about 8°C below zero) as ways to kill all stages. Hot water will ruin many woolens, so check the label first, and call a pest professional if the problem is widespread. Small holes found afterward can often be closed neatly; see our guide to fixing a hole in a sweater.