How to tie a head scarf: five easy ways

Choose the right size and fabric

Square scarves come in a few standard sizes. A 27 inch (70 cm) square is enough for a kerchief or a headband. A 35 inch (90 cm) square, the classic size of a luxury silk carré, has the length to tie under the chin or knot at the back with ends to spare. For a full wrap that covers all the hair, the American Cancer Society suggests a square of 35 inches or larger, or an oblong scarf around 21 by 78 inches (about 53 by 200 cm).

Fabric decides whether the scarf stays put. Silk is beautiful and light but slides, especially on fine or very short hair. Cotton, rayon, modal and bamboo blends have more grip and breathe well in heat. If you love a slippery silk, a thin velvet headband or a soft undercap underneath gives it something to hold on to, a trick the American Cancer Society recommends. Most styles start by folding a square into a triangle or a band; our guide on tying a scarf shows the band fold in detail.

How to tie a head scarf as a simple kerchief

This is the foundation style and the one most people mean when they ask how to tie a head scarf correctly. It covers the top and back of the head and leaves the face open.

1. 01

   Fold the square into a triangle

   Lay the scarf flat, wrong side up, and fold one corner to the opposite corner. For a neater edge, fold the long side over once more by an inch or two.

2. 02

   Place the long edge at your hairline

   Hold the two ends and set the folded edge along your forehead, just at or slightly behind the hairline, with the point of the triangle falling down the back of your head.

3. 03

   Tie at the nape over the point

   Bring both ends back under your ears and tie them in a firm double knot at the nape of your neck, over the point. Tuck the point up under the knot or let it hang.

   CheckCheck the mirror: the edge should sit evenly across the forehead.

The 60s head scarf with a chin tie

The look of film stars in open cars, and of anyone keeping a hairstyle intact in the wind. Use a 35 inch square in silk for the proper drape. Fold it into a triangle, lay it over your head with the long edge well back from the forehead so some hair shows, and bring the ends down along the jaw. Cross them under the chin and take them to the back of the neck, tying a knot at the nape under the hair. For the softer version, simply tie a loose knot at the side of the chin instead.

Big sunglasses and a simple top complete it. It works with short hair as well as long, and it is one of the most practical sun and wind covers there is. If you like the era, our guide to 1950s fashion has more of that polished, open road style.

The headband and the 70s style

For a headband, fold the square into a triangle and then fold from the long edge toward the point, over and over, until you have a band about 2 to 3 inches (5 to 8 cm) wide. Lay the center of the band at the top of your head behind the hairline and tie it under your hair at the nape, or bring the ends up and tie a small knot or bow at the crown. This is the easiest style for anyone who wants to show off hair rather than cover it, and it keeps curls off the face on a hot day.

For a 70s headscarf, wear the band lower, across the forehead just above the brows, knotted at the back or at one side with the ends hanging over the shoulder. Pair it with loose waves, a peasant blouse or flared jeans, as described in our guide to 70s fashion. Worn with the knot on top and a bandana instead of a silk square, the same idea becomes the 1940s look associated with wartime factory workers; our guide on tying a bandana covers that version.

A full head wrap with an oblong scarf

A wrap covers all the hair and looks deliberate and sculptural. The American Cancer Society describes a method that suits most oblong scarves, and it is a good base for many variations.

4. 04

   Center the scarf on your forehead

   Fold the oblong scarf in half lengthwise if it is wide, then place the center on your forehead with the ends falling evenly behind your ears.

5. 05

   Cross the ends at the back

   Bring both ends to the nape of your neck and cross them, pulling snugly so the scarf covers the back of the head.

6. 06

   Bring them forward and cross again

   Take the ends back up around the sides to the front and cross them again at the top or front of the head. You should feel the wrap sit firmly without pressing.

7. 07

   Finish with a knot, twist or rosette

   Tie the ends in a knot and tuck them in, or twist each end and wrap it around the base to form a rosette, securing it with a safety pin hidden in the folds. Move the rosette to the back or the side to change the look.

Tying a scarf for hair loss, sleep and sun

For hair loss, comfort comes first. Choose a soft cotton or rayon scarf that grips, wear a thin cotton undercap or velvet headband beneath it so it cannot slide, and use a generous size so the wrap reaches the nape and covers the ears if you want. Pre tied scarves with a padded front give shape with no folding at all. The American Cancer Society's helpline, 1 800 227 2345, can also point you to organizations that provide free scarves and hats to people with cancer.

For sleep, many people with curly, coily or fragile hair wrap it in silk or satin, which feels smooth against the hair. Gather the hair loosely on top, lay a large square over it with the long edge at the nape, bring the ends forward, and tie them at the front or top of the head where the knot will not press on the pillow. Our guide to satin explains the difference between satin and silk.

In strong sun, a scarf protects the scalp and parting, but it does not shade the face. The Skin Cancer Foundation recommends hats with a brim of at least 3 inches for that, so a scarf is best worn under a brimmed hat or with sunscreen on the face and neck. Tightly woven, darker cotton blocks more light than sheer silk.

Cultural and religious head coverings

Many head coverings are not fashion accessories but part of faith or heritage: the hijab, the tichel worn by some married Jewish women, the gele of Nigerian celebrations, the dastar worn by many Sikhs and many other wraps across Africa, South Asia and the Middle East. Each has its own methods, fabrics and meaning, and people who wear them are the best teachers. The styles in this guide are general fashion ties; they are not substitutes for those traditions, and wearing a scarf in a way that imitates a sacred covering without understanding it can be hurtful.

Men wear head scarves too, most often as a bandana tied at the back or a durag, and the same tips about grip and size apply. Whatever the style, wash scarves as the fabric requires: silk by hand in cool water, cotton in the machine. Our guide on washing silk explains the gentle method.