How to clean a wool coat at home

Read the care label first

Under the FTC care labeling rule, clothing sold in the United States must carry at least one safe cleaning method. The wording matters. A label that says dry clean tells you dry cleaning is safe, but it does not promise that washing is unsafe; the maker only had to list one method. A label that says dry clean only is a warning: the FTC requires the maker to have evidence that washing would damage the garment. If your coat says dry clean only, take that seriously and keep your home care to the methods in the next two sections.

Some coats are designed to be washed. Unlined boiled wool jackets, some knitted coats and coats made from machine washable treated wool often carry a hand wash or gentle machine wash symbol. The label will also tell you the fiber mix, which matters: a coat of 70 percent wool and 30 percent polyamide behaves much like wool, while a coat with a large synthetic share may be more forgiving. If the symbols are unclear, our guide to reading care labels explains each one.

How to clean a wool coat without washing it

Wool resists dirt and odor better than most fabrics, and regular light care keeps a coat clean for a whole season. Woolmark recommends brushing woven wool after wear, resting it between wears, and airing it to clear smells. These steps take minutes and often remove the need for a trip to the cleaner.

1. 01

   Brush it

   Lay or hang the coat and brush it with a soft natural bristle clothes brush, working in long strokes down the length of the fabric. This lifts dust and grit before they work into the weave and become stains. A lint roller helps with hair and fluff, but the brush does the real cleaning.

2. 02

   Air it

   Hang the coat on a broad, shaped hanger in fresh air or near an open window for a few hours, out of direct sun. Food and smoke odors usually fade overnight. Let it rest a day between wears so the fibers recover their shape.

3. 03

   Steam out wrinkles and smells

   Hang the coat in the bathroom while you run a hot shower, or pass a handheld steamer over it from a few inches away, then let it dry fully on the hanger before wearing. The moisture relaxes creases and freshens the fibers. Our guide to steaming clothes covers the technique.

4. 04

   Wipe the collar and cuffs

   The collar and cuffs collect skin oil and makeup. Dampen a white cloth with cool water and a drop of wool detergent, dab the area without rubbing, then dab again with a cloth dampened in plain water. Let it dry before judging the result.

Spot clean stains

Treat spills as soon as you can. Woolmark's stain guidance starts the same way for almost everything: scoop or blot the excess with white paper towel, never rub, and test any treatment on a hidden area such as the inside of a hem facing to check for color loss before you touch the visible spot. Work from the outside of the stain toward the center with small amounts of liquid so you do not spread it or leave a water ring.

Water based stains such as coffee, mud and wine usually respond to cool water and a little wool detergent, dabbed and blotted in turns. Let mud dry completely first, then brush most of it away. Oily stains are different: Woolmark advises a solvent before water on grease, because water applied first can set a permanent ring. A small amount of a dry cleaning spot remover, used by its instructions in a ventilated room, is the safest home option; our guide to removing grease explains alternatives. Never use hot water, which sets protein stains such as blood and egg, and never use chlorine bleach on wool, which dissolves the fiber.

How to wash a wool coat by hand, when the label allows

Only wash the whole coat if the label shows a washing symbol. Choose a wool detergent that is pH neutral and free of enzymes and bleach, because enzymes designed to digest protein stains also attack wool, which is a protein fiber.

5. 05

   Prepare the coat

   Empty the pockets, close the buttons and zips, and brush off loose dirt. Treat any spots first as described above.

6. 06

   Soak in cool water

   Fill a clean bathtub with cool to lukewarm water, no warmer than about 86°F (30°C), and dissolve the detergent before the coat goes in. Submerge the coat and press it gently under the water. Let it soak for about ten minutes. Do not rub, knead or wring, because heat and agitation together are what felt and shrink wool.

7. 07

   Rinse at the same temperature

   Drain, refill with water of the same temperature, and press the coat gently to rinse. A sudden change from warm to cold water can shock the fibers and encourage felting. Repeat until no suds remain.

8. 08

   Press the water out

   Drain the tub and press the coat against its bottom to squeeze water out. Then lay it on a large towel, roll it up, and press on the roll. A soaked coat is very heavy, so support it with both arms when you lift it.

9. 09

   Dry on a broad hanger

   Hang the coat on a wide, shaped hanger, fasten the top button, and straighten the collar, seams and lining by hand. Dry it indoors at room temperature, away from radiators and direct sunlight, which Woolmark warns can damage and discolor wool. Expect it to take a day or two.

Washing machines and home dry cleaning kits

Can you wash a wool coat in the washing machine? Only if the label explicitly allows it, and then on the wool or hand wash cycle, in a mesh bag or with the coat turned inside out, with a low spin. Modern wool cycles move the drum very gently, which is why a treated wool sweater can survive them, but a heavy coat unbalances the drum and a lined coat can still distort. When the label says hand wash, hand wash. Never tumble dry a wool coat; the heat and tumbling together shrink wool quickly.

Home dry cleaning kits are something different from professional dry cleaning. They use a cloth dampened with a cleaning solution and your dryer's heat to create steam inside a sealed bag. They can freshen a coat and loosen light odors, but they do not remove ground in dirt or oily stains the way solvent cleaning does. Read the kit's instructions and your coat's label before trying one, and do not use one on a coat marked do not tumble dry.

When to go to a dry cleaner

Take the coat to a professional if it is structured and lined, if the label says dry clean only, if the coat is cashmere, camel hair or a blend with silk, or if a stain has not moved after one careful attempt at home. Point out stains and tell the cleaner what caused them, because the right solvent depends on the stain. For most people, one professional clean at the end of the season, before storage, is enough.

Store the coat clean. Woolmark notes that food stains and body oils attract clothes moths, so a coat put away with a dirty collar is an invitation. Hang it on a shaped hanger in a breathable cotton garment bag, not dry cleaner plastic, which traps moisture. Our guide to storing knitwear covers moth prevention in more detail, and removing pilling helps with the bobbles that form where a bag strap rubs.