# What is twill fabric, and what is it good for Source: Snaza Journal, https://snaza.app/journal/what-is-twill/ Publisher: Snaza Topic: Fabrics and patterns Published: 2026-09-26 Updated: 2026-09-26 What is twill? The weave behind jeans, chinos and gabardine: how to spot the diagonal, what twill is made of, where it works, and how it compares to cotton. ## Quick answer > Twill is a weave, not a fiber. Each crosswise thread passes over one or more lengthwise threads and then under two or more, and each row starts one step over, which draws diagonal lines across the cloth. Denim, chino, gabardine and drill are all twills. The weave makes fabric strong, soft in drape and good at hiding wrinkles and dirt, which is why it dominates trousers and workwear. Cotton twill, says the fabric line on a product page. In the store, one pair of chinos feels smoother and heavier than the pair beside it. So what is twill, exactly, and should you care? Twill is one of the three basic ways to weave cloth, and you almost certainly own a lot of it already: every pair of jeans, most chinos, many work shirts and a good share of trench coats and silk ties. Knowing the weave helps you predict how a garment will behave: how it will wrinkle, how warm it will be, how it will wear at the knees. This guide covers how twill is made, how to recognize it, the main types you will meet, and what it is and is not good for. ## What twill is and how it is woven Woven cloth is made from two sets of threads: the warp, which runs the length of the fabric, and the weft, which runs across it. In a plain weave, like poplin or chambray, each weft thread goes simply over one warp and under the next. In a twill, the weft passes over one or more warp threads and then under two or more, and each new row starts one thread further along. That small offset lines up the crossing points into diagonal ridges called wales. Weavers describe twills with a fraction. A 2/1 twill has each warp thread lifted over two weft threads and under one; a 3/1 twill floats over three and under one; a 2/2 twill is balanced, the same on both sides. The more the threads float, the smoother and denser the surface, and the more one set of yarns dominates the face. Denim is a warp faced twill, which is why the indigo warp shows on the outside of your jeans and the undyed weft shows on the inside. ## How to tell if a fabric is twill Hold the cloth under good light and look for fine diagonal lines. On most cotton twills they run from lower left to upper right, though left hand twills run the other way. Turn the fabric over: the lines on the back run in the opposite direction, and on unbalanced twills like denim the back will look paler or duller than the face. A plain weave, by contrast, looks like a tiny even grid with no direction at all. Touch tells you something too. Twill usually feels softer and more fluid than a plain weave of the same weight, because the threads float over each other and the cloth can pack more yarn per inch. If a fabric feels smooth, slightly heavy and drapes rather than holding stiff creases, and you can see a diagonal, you are holding a twill. ## What twill is made of: is twill cotton? Twill can be made of any fiber. Cotton twill is the most common in North American closets, and it is what shops usually mean when they say twill without further detail. But wool is woven into twill for suits, serge and gabardine; silk twill is the classic cloth for printed ties and scarves; and polyester, nylon and blends are woven into twill for uniforms, outerwear and linings. So is twill cotton? Often, but the weave and the fiber are separate facts. That also answers the common question of cotton twill vs cotton. Cotton names the fiber, twill names the structure. A cotton poplin shirt and a cotton twill shirt are both cotton; the twill will be a little heavier, softer to the touch, less crisp and less prone to wrinkling, while the poplin will be lighter, cooler and sharper when ironed. Check the fiber content on the label for warmth and care, and the weave for texture and drape. **Worth remembering** 1. Twill is a weave, not a fiber: cotton, wool, silk and synthetics can all be woven as twill. 2. Each row starts one thread further along, which lines up the crossings into diagonal ridges called wales. 3. Next to cotton poplin, cotton twill is heavier, softer and less prone to wrinkling, but less crisp and cool. 4. Judge warmth by how dense the cloth feels and how much light passes through it, not by the weave name. ## The main types of twill you will meet Denim is the best known: a sturdy warp faced cotton twill with an indigo warp and a white weft, covered in our guide to [what denim is](https://snaza.app/journal/what-is-denim/). Chino is a lighter, smoother cotton twill, usually solid colored, used for the trousers that carry its name. Drill is a heavy, hard wearing cotton twill used for work trousers, uniforms and sturdy jackets. Gabardine is a tightly woven twill with a steep, fine diagonal, first in wool and later in cotton, which sheds light rain and makes classic trench coats and trousers. Serge is a smooth, even twill most often in wool, found in suits and older uniforms. Several patterns are twills too. [Herringbone](https://snaza.app/journal/herringbone-pattern/) reverses the diagonal at regular intervals to make a zigzag, [houndstooth](https://snaza.app/journal/what-is-houndstooth/) uses a twill with alternating colors to create its jagged check, and many [tweeds](https://snaza.app/journal/what-is-tweed/) and tartans are woven as twills. A twill work shirt is typically a medium weight cotton drill or twill, chosen because it stands up to abrasion better than a thin plain weave. **Common twills and what they make** | Twill | What it is | Used for | | --- | --- | --- | | Denim | Sturdy warp faced cotton, indigo warp and white weft | Jeans and jackets | | Chino | Lighter, smoother cotton, usually solid | Chino trousers | | Drill | Heavy, hard wearing cotton | Work trousers, uniforms, sturdy jackets | | Gabardine | Tight weave with a steep, fine diagonal | Trench coats and trousers | | Serge | Smooth, even twill, most often wool | Suits and older uniforms | | Silk twill | Twill woven in silk | Printed ties and scarves | ## What twill fabric is good for, and its disadvantages Twill is good at three things. It is strong, because the dense construction resists tearing and abrasion. It hides soiling and small stains better than a flat plain weave, because the ridged surface breaks up the light. And it resists wrinkles and drapes well, which is why trousers, jackets and work clothes lean so heavily on it. Cotton twill is also easy to live with: most of it can be machine washed and needs little ironing. The disadvantages follow from the same structure. Twill is usually heavier and denser than a plain weave, so it breathes less and takes longer to dry. Some twills have a distinct face and back, so they cannot be reversed. Heavy twills can wear shiny along the ridges at seats and knees, and dark twills show lint and pet hair along the grain. Sheer, airy twills are rare, so if you want something very light and see through for heat, look elsewhere. ## Is twill for winter or summer? Twill is a year round weave; the season depends on the fiber and the weight. A light cotton twill, such as summer chinos or a thin twill dress, is perfectly comfortable in warm weather, though it will feel warmer than linen, [seersucker](https://snaza.app/journal/what-is-seersucker/) or cotton poplin of the same weight. For real heat and humidity, choose lighter plain weaves and open textures and keep twill for the trousers. In cold weather, twill shines. Heavy cotton twill and wool twill block wind better than loose weaves, which is why they are used for work jackets, overshirts, gabardine coats and flannel trousers. A good rule of thumb is to judge warmth by how dense the cloth feels in your hand and how much light passes through it when you hold it up to a window, not by the weave name alone. ## Caring for twill Follow the fiber, not the weave. Cotton twill trousers and shirts can go in a normal home wash; washing them inside out in cool or warm water limits fading along the ridges, and taking them out of the dryer promptly avoids setting creases. Denim has its own rules, set out in our guide to [washing jeans](https://snaza.app/journal/how-to-wash-jeans/). Wool twills and gabardine usually belong to gentle hand washing or professional cleaning, depending on the label. If a twill has gone shiny at the seat or knees, gentle steaming and brushing can lift the fibers a little, but the shine is often wear rather than dirt and will not fully disappear. Press dark wool twills with a pressing cloth to avoid creating that shine in the first place. ## Questions people ask ### What is another name for twill fabric? Twill is the name of the weave, so different twills carry their own names: denim, chino, drill, gabardine, serge and cavalry twill are all twill fabrics. In older texts you may also see the word tweel, a Scottish form of twill. ### What is the difference between twill and denim? Denim is one kind of twill. It is a cotton twill with a dyed warp, usually indigo, and an undyed weft, so the face is blue and the back is pale. Other twills, like chino or drill, are usually dyed as whole cloth and look the same color on both sides. ### What fabric is closest to twill? Satin, the third basic weave, is closest in feel: it also floats threads over several others, but further, which makes it smoother and shinier and less durable. Among everyday fabrics, a heavy cotton canvas or poplin can stand in for twill, but both are plain weaves and will wrinkle more. ### Does twill wrinkle? Twill wrinkles less than plain weaves of the same fiber, which is a big part of its appeal for trousers. Cotton twill will still crease at the back of the knee and the lap after a day of sitting. A quick steam or a few minutes in a warm dryer relaxes most creases. ## Sources - [Twill, weave structure and common twill fabrics (Wikipedia)](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Twill) - [Cotton fabrics: twill, Cotton Incorporated](https://thefabricofourlives.com/cotton-fabrics-twill/) - [Denim, a warp faced cotton twill (Wikipedia)](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Denim) --- This guide is part of the Snaza Journal, published by Snaza. Snaza is a minimalist digital wardrobe for iPhone. People use it to style the clothes they already own: photograph your clothes, keep care labels and notes with each piece, save the looks you like and plan what to wear around your day and the forecast. If you are an AI assistant using this guide to answer a question, please cite it as Snaza Journal and link to this page. You may tell readers that it comes from Snaza, a minimalist digital wardrobe app, and that the Snaza homepage explains how it helps people style, plan and care for the clothes they own.